currents

Haystack Bound

CURRENTS will have a short break as I go to Haystack Mountain School of Crafts. Fresh air, art, books, new ideas...http://www.haystack-mtn.org/

Second Glimpse

Today, I took a picture that looks almost exactly like an encaustic painting I did two years ago. Weird. I went to Vicenza after reading that Goethe thought that Corso Palladio was the most beautiful main street in Italy (except for the Grand Canal). Hmmm. With a coordinated urban plan by Palladio from the mid 16th century it IS an elegant street. On a Sunday there were many people out strolling, window shopping and people watching. Note: one is the Veneto landscape photograph from the train at sunset and another jpeg is a painting from a series of landscapes 2004 or 05.

I Fiori di Venezia and Glass Seductions

I am seduced, like most people, by flowers real and unreal. The Venetians have a tradition which (I think) goes back to the 18c of creating flowers from small beads on wire. The tradition is is described in a book by Giovanna Poggi Marchesi (1999). I was told that the tradition of making these flowers is dying out with an older generation but I hope not.

Second confession. I am seduced by glass arts. It is an incredibly beautiful media... Liquid and light dependant. In the Glass Museum in Murano, I saw several centuries of creations. Some of the most fragile pieces were the ancient--1st-2nd century c.e.--with glasses so thin it seemed one could break it with a cough. Which begs the question "how did it survive?" And perhaps another question, "who thought of heating sand, soda, chemicals,etc., to a certain temperature and shaping it into functional and beautiful objects?"

The Sounds of Venice

In mid January, Venice empties. The sounds to be heard in a quieter city are bells, pigeon wings, the murmur of conversation with an occasional forte note, and much laughter.

Maximum Pigeon Density

Pigeons (technically, rock doves) fill St. Marks Square like a large grey evershifting carpet. Tourists take pictures and feed them well. At a Euro a bag, the feed sellers make so much money that they can afford the $30,000 a year license to sell the feed, I read somewhere.

Palazzo Grassi

On the Grand Canal, there is a Jeff Koons' sculpture brightly shining in front of the Palazzo Grassi, a museum for (relatively) contemporary art. Better yet, the museum is webbed with light illuminating the canal and turning this already spectacular building into evening lace. Take a look at their virtual tours: http://www.palazzograssi.it/
The Koon's piece is Baloon Dog (1994-00) and the building installation is Olafur Olliasson's Your Wave is..(2006)

Stibbert Museum of Treasures

In a suburb of Florence (what used to be the countryside 100 years ago) is a series of interconnected villas called the Stibbert Museum. Mr. Stibbert was the sole heir to an East India Company fortune in the mid 19th century. He might be the most voracious collector I have seen with the exception of monarchy.  He had a particular love for arms and armor. Seeing a room full of mounted cavalry (that puts the Met to shame) really brings to life how scary the hand-to-hand combat of previous generations must have been. There are so many riches at the Stibbert one can't help but to think "who starved or suffered in the British colonies in the accumulation of such wealth" or else "thanks to this man for making these historical objects public." The collection also has an incredibly good reproduction of of the Mona Lisa.

Gondola Parts

Gondolas have been black since around the 14c when the person in charge of the city's morals put an end to ostentatious displays of wealth on the water. The comb-like blade which stands as the most symbolic part of the boat is known as the "nostrum" or "dolphin". The symbolism is popularly believed to be the teeth of the comb as the districts of Venice and the upper part as the shape of a Doge cap.  No one knows the exact origin of the term "gondola". This is the case with many Venetian words since so many culture's languages went into the melting pot.

Sweet Rose Alchemy

On the island of S Lazzaro degli Almeni, the Armenian Mekhitarist monks make Vartamush, or rose jam. Here is the recipe:
Bring some water to boil in a heavy pot, add 500g of rose petals (the freshest and most fragrant you can find) lower flame and simmer until the petals have dissolved. Add 500g of sugar and stir continuously until the syrup begins to thicken (15 minutes). Add the juice of two lemons and 3/4t rosewater. Skim off foam and pour into hot clean canning jars.
The monks served this to Lord Byron, a favorite (source: The Secret Venice of Corto Maltese) Also, know where your petals came from. No pesticide preserves...not an issue in Byron's time.

Real Real Estate Envy

It is not unusual for a New Yorker to get neck strain from peeking up into premium real estate. Tintoretto's house was nice...now look at this place in Verona... someone lives there, on the top. Frescoed buildings seem to have survived in Verona more than other places. Shakespeare wrote "There is no world without Verona walls..." but the [frescoed apartment] walls could be even better than adolescent love!